In comparison, the cannoli at Modern are smaller than those at Mike’s. But size is not the issue when it comes to cannoli because of their richness, and since the cannoli at Mike’s are not unbearably large, size is negatable. The shell, fillings and toppings are what to compare.
At Mike’s the tube-shaped shell was golden brown, crisp and flakey perfection. Per contra, the shells at Modern were darker in color, indicating a harder shell. They were not burnt, but because of the texture, the shells came off as heavier and constricting. The two fillings at both bakeries were similar in taste. The Modern Pastry filling a little tangier than the Mike’s sweeter filling, but both close to a ricotta revelation. On the other hand, the texture of the fillings were different. The Mike’s filling was smoother, as the Modern filling was unfortunately, curdled-like. A little chunky here and there.
And now for the toppings: at Modern Pastry almonds are a choice of topping. Likewise at Mike’s Pastry on the amaretto cannoli. Modern Pastry pressed on their almonds slivered and raw. Regrettably, when you use raw almonds as a garnish, it adds no color, and a papery texture. On the amaretto cannoli at Mike’s Pastry the almonds were toasted. This gives the cannoli an added punch of color and, more importantly, a delightful crunch, and in my opinion a better taste. With an abundance of creamy filling and just a thin layer of a shell, toasted almonds will give any cannoli, or dessert for that matter, a more delectable texture. Mike’s Pastry and Modern Pastry are neck and neck with their cannoli, but because of certain technical issues, Mike’s Pastry does have the reigning dessert. I encourage you all to go to both shops and try out both of their desserts and answer “yes” when you’re asked if you want powdered sugar atop your cannoli.
Sophie Rubin can be contacted at [email protected]. Photos by Sophie Rubin.
