Fairsted Kitchen, a Washington Square eatery, made us feel like family. The homey decor, which ranged from fairy lights draped over outdoor seating to wooden mantels and antique-looking lamps dripping off walls, instantly created an inviting atmosphere.
The warm and open layout was accentuated by the stellar service, which was very accommodating of our group’s arrival time and dietary constraints. A waiter explained that the menu options, fairly limited and sorted into snacks/sides, small plates, large plates and large format, were all intended for sharing, and multiple orders of the same dish would be consolidated onto one plate. The only downside to the service was its speed. While all of our dishes came out fast and when they were ready, it was a whirlwind of a meal, with our party of eight paying after only an hour and a half.
For vegetarians, there were limited options in the snacks/sides and small plates portions of the menu. However, the hazelnut spaetzle, a German egg noodle, initially stuffed with chicken, could be made to order without chicken, with the relative blandness of the noodles balanced by the greens on the plate. The grains salad was refreshing and the wilted summer greens were simple but flavorful, with nectarine and greens creating an interesting contrast with smooth and cool manchego cheese. The beet salad was the best salad we had, with soft cheese complementing the fresh beets, creating an overall tangy flavor.
Located in Washington Square, Fairsted Kitchen offered excellent service and communal food options. The dinner was enjoyable, but the pacing was rushed.
The crispy crab cakes were a hit, as well as the sesame-accentuated tuna poke with hints of pepper and citrus The lamb was charred, but did not taste well-done, and was overall tender and pleasing. All plates were passed around and sampled by most members, and the table was more than large enough to accommodate our communal meal. Water glasses were never left empty, and there was almost no use for the pitchers on the table, as friendly and diligent waiters checked in and refilled every few minutes.
The relative speed of the main course was slowed down a little by the offer of dessert. That night they had homemade peach pie and small coffee cups of Belgian chocolate; no desserts were actually listed on the menu. The peach pie was sweet and paired with ricotta cheese, which neutralized any excessive sweetness and created an interesting texture when paired with the fresh peach. The Belgian chocolate, mixed with nuts, was extravagant and emphasized by the thinner cream. Two of each dessert was more than enough for the whole table, despite the small appearance of each dish.
The total for our whole party, including tip, was $180, coming out to about $23 per person. It may not be in the range of a high school student looking for a quick and cheap meal, but is certainly reasonable enough for a special celebration or even a nice night out after a long week of school. Do not be fooled by the physical size of the dishes or the fancy exterior: Fairsted is filling, worth the cost and will make sure you are pampered.
Juliana Kaplan can be contacted at [email protected].
