Pizza is generally categorized as follows: New York-style or Chicago-style. Personally, I go for New York-style thin-crust. Rarely have I heard of delicious pizza from anywhere else.
Going into Otto Pizza, which opened in Coolidge Corner last May, I had my doubts. The original Otto Pizza opened in Portland, Maine in 2009. Who has ever heard of delicious pizza from Maine?
The menu, however, caught my interest right off the bat. Despite serving only pizza, salads and a limited variety of beverages, Otto Pizza’s use of diverse and adventurous flavors distinguishes it from the average pizza house. House favorites incorporate a variety of toppings, from the classic pepperoni to pulled pork and mango.
Seated by large, arched windows. I had a hard time hearing my tablemates among the sounds of surrounding customers, ‘60s band music and busy streets typical of Coolidge Corner. It was 3 p.m. on a Sunday, and the 60-seat restaurant was nearly full of families and married couples with the odd loner thrown in. Some employees from neighboring Coolidge Corner stores dropped by the takeout counter, grabbed a slice and left.
Glowing yellow walls near the back of the restaurant are decorated with pizza-centric art, and the severed head of Ronald McDonald haunts customers, sparking memories of the fast-food chain that once sat right around the corner. Otto Pizza’s larger-than-life, popping interior fits its ambiance perfectly.
My lunch party of three ordered the large chicken and basil pizza for $19, and were disappointed to find it did not fill us up as much as we had hoped. It was hardly oily, considering grease is something impossible to avoid when it comes to pizza. Our eight slices were still fresh and hot, their crust fluffier than I usually prefer, but still thin enough to make that satisfying, crispy crunch. The pizza also impressed with an aromatic, basil-sprinkled tomato sauce.
Though evenings are geared toward the adult bar crowd, Otto Pizza is still a great place for lunch, an early dinner or snack. Whatever floats your boat.
If the noisy lunch scene still isn’t your thing, you will find Otto Pizza’s service more than satisfying. Take-out is offered. Better yet, you can order a slice to go at the counter from a nice selection of pies for $3.50. Have a party to feed? A large 16-inch pizza ranges from $15 to $21.
Some say Otto Pizza is pricey, which is true. But what they lack in cheap eats they make up in daring ingredients.
Perhaps there’s more to Maine than just lobster after all.
Pearl Choi can be contacted at [email protected]
