Upon first glance, Brookline Village’s Orinoco appears every bit a sleek eatery of the modern moment. It is dominated by bold, clean lines—from the stainless steel framing of its open kitchen to the thin countertop of its window-side bar—and overrun with trendy 20-somethings.

Look a little closer, however, and the restaurant reveals a familial warmth. Brightly colored South American masks survey diners from a brick wall while vintage folk figurines stand guard over the entryway.

The color palette is entirely rustic—all deep browns and reds paired with soft, mossy greens. The space is ambiently lit by luminescent candles and dangling, iron-wrought pendant lamps of all shapes and sizes. A set of sepia-toned photographs overlook each wooden dining carriage, tracing the owner’s family history all the way back to Venezuela.

It is this balance between the homemade and the sleek, the traditional and the modern that lends Orinoco its warm, almost romantic intimacy. The presentation has been finely tuned, but the flavors remain completely vibrant, completely rustic and completely Latin American.

Inspired by family-run eateries along the roads of Venezuela, the restaurant seats no more than 40. Our party of four sat in a wooden booth, its coziness interrupted only by a persistent draft from the nearby doorway.

Alongside the typical list of soft drinks, Orinoco uniquely spotlights an assortment of freshly squeezed fruit juices. The Parchita, passion fruit drink, and the Papelón con Limón, a variety of lemonade, were delightfully tangy and unprocessed, cleansing the palate before the meal commenced.

We started off by sampling Orinoco’s selection of Antojitos, or little cravings. The Tequeños ($6.50), a dish of guayanes cheese wrapped in flaky dough and served with chipotle ketchup for dipping, one-upped American mozzarella sticks in every respect.

Buttery without being oily, the golden-brown dough gave the dish a lovely crunch. The cheese was pleasantly denser and more mild than typical mozzarella, its flavor only enhanced by the smoky barbecue notes of the chipotle ketchup.

Our second appetizer, the Datiles ($6.00), were almond-filled dates wrapped in bacon. The dish married crispy, succulent bacon with smooth, ripe dates and firm, crunchy almonds in a veritable wedding march of flavor: salty then sweet.

Orinoco features a variety of Principales and Platos de La Casa, or entrées and evening specials respectively. The Adobo Smoked Tenderloin Churrasco ($19.00), a steak dish with marinated tomato and red wine-panela glaze, was exquisite. The tenderloin itself was prepared beautifully at medium well: It was cooked thoroughly, yet remained juicy. The meat’s peppery seasoning was elevated by a crisp side salad of arugula, blue cheese and shallots that was finished with a sherry vinaigrette.

The Asado Negro ($13.50), slow-cooked beef with a sauce of panela (unrefined sugar cane) and onion, accompanied by rice and plantains, was a sweeter yet equally-delicious beef dish. The beef was fork-tender and heightened by the sauce, which was not too heavy while carrying an oniony, black bean flavor that was somewhat reminiscent of the American South.

The white rice was perfectly al dente and complemented by the sweet plantains that, even after sautéing, remained solid and not mushy.

Lastly, the Mahi-Mahi ($17.00) delivered slightly salty fish breaded with sweet plantains. Beneath this mild combination lay even more arresting flavors, including sour cherry tomatoes that made the hairs stand up on the back of our necks, as well as rabo encendido, a spicy oxtail dish literally translated as “tail on fire.”

Charred yet tender, the shredded oxtail left behind a smoky bite, made even stronger by the fleeting husky sweetness with which it arrived—a reminder that at Orinoco, the present tastes sweeter when flavored with the past.

Orinoco
22 Harvard Street Brookline, MA 02445 (617) 232-9505
Mon: Closed
Tues – Wed: 12:00 pm – 2:30 pm / 5:30 pm – 10:00 pm
Thursday – Saturday: 12:00 pm – 2:30 pm / 5:30 pm – 11:00 pm
Sunday: 11:00 am – 3:00 pm / 5:30 pm – 9:00 pm

Miriam El-Baz and Emma Nash can be contacted at [email protected].