It was the classiest gas station we had ever dined in.
Cognac Bistro, formerly a Brookline gas station, has embraced its past with a functioning garage door doubling as the front wall.
Dimly lit, the restaurant uses its small floor plan to stylish effect by devoting one section to sit-down dining and the other to a sleek bar setup that includes both a traditional bar and an oyster bar.
The exposed bricks and vintage, bold graphic-esque French posters that line the walls are accentuated by rustic wooden tables, creating a by-the-fireplace ambience.
Originally, as a party of 11, the manager told us that it would be difficult to seat us even with our reservation. Ultimately, our final party of seven did not fare any better seated at a makeshift table jutting into the center aisle.
After being seated, drink orders were promptly taken, and we were presented with soft and crisp bread served with a pot of creamy, unsalted butter.
We ordered several appetizers for sampling including cheese puffs gougeres ($8), crispy calamari ($9), warm frisee salad ($9), and onion soup ($9).
Cheese puffs, usually thought of as snack food, were a welcome appetizer, made into a classy treat, fluffy and laced with cheese. The fried calamari was a unique twist on a familiar classic, enhanced by an assortment of specialty olives and hot peppers.
The salad was a balance of hot, smoky bacon with refreshing beets and fresh greens, topped by a poached egg, completing the savory taste. The soup, served in a tall bowl, was rich, warm and decadent with a dense base and a strong taste of onion.
The entree selection was varied, ranging from sauteed duck breast ‘au poivre’ ($24), grilled hanger steak ($22) to a deep three-cheese macaroni & cheese ($12). In addition, there was a limited local oyster selection, with oysters from Bluepoint ($1.00 per oyster), Duxbury ($2.50 per oyster) and Wareham ($2.25 per oyster).
The oysters were cool, smooth and fresh, served with two sauces. The favorite was a zesty, tangy sauce, which allowed the oyster taste to shine through.
The duck was tender and peppery, served with mushrooms, cognac demi, dijon spaetzle and bearnaise aioli. The result was creamy and sweet, contrasting juicily with the meat.
A daily special, the seafood risotto turned out to be mushy and slushy, with a fishy flavor more overwhelming than expected. Even the risotto lovers did not enjoy it.
The steak was well-cooked and juicy. Pre-cut, it was red in the middle, and overall, succulent and enjoyable. The fries on the side were cooked well, but overly salted.
The plate of artisan cheese we ordered was quickly devoured and the double cream Italian, french bleu, Maine cheddar, goat cheese, and plain cheddar pleased the taste buds of the crowd.
The real star of the meal was the dessert offered that night, a “tiny pot of chocolate” fondue ($3). A one-person serving, the fondue came in a small pot, rich and perfectly melted. The sugar cookies that were served with it were a nice complement, the plain and subtly sweet flavor accentuating the richness of the chocolate.
As the check arrived, the sweetness did not last long. For a party of seven, the bill came to about $250. All the appetizers, entrees, and desserts that had seemed reasonably priced added up to about $200 before the added-in 18% tip and sales tax.
Overall, while the food was good, and the atmosphere light, Cognac Bistro did not seem worth the price to us, a group of teenagers dining out. It became evident why we were the youngest party there.
If you are looking for a spot to commemorate a special occasion or celebration, Cognac Bistro might be appropriate. According to a Brookline Tab article, the restaurant is up for sale and planning on closing its doors with an offer already put in for the space, so if you are celebrating any big events, go while you can.
But, if you are looking for a Friday night hangout or a casual lunch, stick with local haunts that can easily seat and accept a large group for a reasonable price.
Juliana Kaplan and Jennifer Sun can be contacted at [email protected].
